Time to make the most of mushroom season with these warming, soothing dishes

Deepest autumn, a damp morning. We returned from mushrooming, walking home with barely more than a handful of soft brown fungi and fried them in a pan of butter with a fistful of chopped tarragon and a squeeze of lemon. We ate them daringly, foolishly, not really knowing what we’d picked.

I am older and more sensible now and live far away from the woods in which we once foraged, or the golf courses where we hunted for mushrooms of another kind, with crooked stems and fairy hats for wasted Sunday afternoons. Continue reading…
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